I was staying in a remote village some forty kilometres above a lovely mediterranean town recently. When I first visited, these shy folk would keep to their little village dwellings and come out to their verandah to look over the English tourists and sometimes we might exchange the nearest to a civil ‘hello’. I’ve got to know the locals gradually over many years of staying with the same family. Watching them improve their lot, turning something not unlike a cattle shed into a full blown 4 bedroomed mansion has been fascinating. Out goes the basic sink plus the rotten old draining board and mismatched cupboards – often made up of fruit picking crates, left over from a havest many moons ago. In come sleek ceramic or steel sinks, fully runing water . . . The antique water pumps in the yard, fed by spring water or wells and under which everyone used to wash themselves have long since ceased to be needed and if not sold to budding antique dealers, are sold on as reclaims. Changes are sad but necessary to keep up with modern needs.